ChaniaScape | PLACES TO GO

PLACES TO GO

GORGES

SAMARIA
The Samaria gorge is the longest and deepest in Europe. It is 13km and the narrowest part, known as the ‘iron gates’ is just over 3m wide. Along with rare species of herbs and wildflowers you may catch a glimpse of the rare ‘kri-kri’ goat. There are springs throughout the gorge. Wear stout shoes, and layers of clothing as you’ll start feeling chilly, and end your walk very hot indeed. Take a camera for sure as the views are amazing. From Xiloskalo the walk will take you between 3 and 7 hours. Go by excursion or take the public bus, catching a boat from the end at Agia Roumeli to Chora Sfakion where you can catch your connecting bus back to Chania.

ARADENA
This is equally dramatic to Samaria but shorter and less frequented. You start at about 800m up the White mountains and plunge southward to the waters of the Libyan sea. Look for Calabrian pine, Cypress, Oriental Plane trees close to stream bed and Cretan maple in the eastern part as well as Cretan Dittany (Dictamus) on the slopes. You’ll be able to see griffon vultures and possibly Lammergeier. At one point of the gorge you’ll come across a safe, fixed ladder of about 10m high which may cause problems for people with a fear of heights. Take water for the whole walk. It is a 1 hour to walk from Loutro to Marmara. Going up Aradena takes a good 3 hours from Marmara to Aradena village. It is certainly much easier to walk up the gorge than down. Only good, sturdy shoes should be worn to walk Aradena, anything else will likely lead to problems.

IMBROS
A delightful ramble down old supply route from Imbros village to Chora Sfakion. Less demanding physically than Samaria or Aradena. Dramatic and spectacular scenery, 8kms, last 2kms rough, wear walking shoes, about 2 ½ hours.

VENIZELOS COUNTRY

Therisso was one of the cradles of Cretan resistance. A beautiful drive through the ravine, crossing and re-crossing the stream bed. Continue past Therisso along the narrow and rocky road and right at the top lies Zourva, a cluster of white washed houses with stupendous views over the surrounding valleys. Spiral slowly down to Meskla, another lovely village set on a swift flowing brook, surrounded by lush agricultural land and orange groves. You’ll find a tiny chapel at the bottom of the village with 14C fresco remains. Meskla was the centre of the great Kandanoleon revolt against the Venetians in 16C. Continue onto Fournes, known for its plentiful oranges. This is a bigger village with shops and producers co-operative.

AKROTIRI PENINSULAR

Marathi There are a number of beaches on this wild and rugged peninsular including Kalathas, which is sandy, good for swimming and ideal for children as it deepens very gradually so even a young child can touch the ground 30m from the shore, and has a taverna and cantina. Also Tersanas beach, though small with sand and shingle, it is good for swimming and offers a cantina. Stavros is a sandy beach with good swimming in sheltered waters. It has a small harbour, a taverna and a public telephone. Scenes from the famous film Zorba the Greek were filmed here. Marathi is a busy beach with plenty of water sports on offer and a choice of tavernas nearby. In contrast, Loutraki is a very quiet, small, almost circular cove with very clean and clear water.

There are three monasteries fairly close together on the Akrotiri. Agia Triada is 17c, Venetian built and now restored. It has a grand arched entrance and a campanile, a beautiful altarpiece in the church and a small museum. It is a working monastery and visits are possible. Follow the

gravel road 4kms up the mountain to Gourverneto Monastery which is 16c, has a fortified appearance and is known for its domed roof and icons as well as ancient frescoes in the church. It has a tiny museum. The Saint’s Day is October 6/7 when local residents come to celebrate a religious festival there. Gourverneto has a strict dress code. Below you’ll find Katholiko Monastery which is now deserted and in ruins as the monks were continually besieged by pirates and eventually moved up to Gourverneto Monastery. The valley is dotted with caves and you’ll find St John the Hermit’s cave. St John lived and died here in a large low cavern, dark and dank with big stalactites, one in the shape of a bear if you look at it from the right direction). Cross the bridged ravine and scramble to the bottom of the ravine and follow the stream bed to the sea (it takes about 15 minutes). A tiny natural harbour, the remains of a port, an ancient boathouse or slipway hewn from rock can be seen and you can swim from here. It takes about 1 hour to return uphill. The path to Katholiko has been improved substantially this past year.

VENIZELOS GRAVES AND PROFITIS ILIAS
Simple stone slab tombs of Crete’s most famous statesman and his son are set on a raised surround in a small, calm, well maintained park with panoramic views of Chania. There are several cafes nearby with magnificent views. The hilltop nearby is called Profitis Ilias after the little church there, and it was the scene of a Cretan uprising in 1897. The rebellion was signalled by running up a flag of independence. Legend has it that, the flagstaff being shot away, a resistance fighter held the standard in his hands, whence the land and naval guns stopped firing to honour his bravery!

Simple stone slab tombs of Crete’s most famous statesman and his son are set on a raised surround in a small, calm, well maintained park with panoramic views of Chania. There are several cafes nearby with magnificent views. The hilltop nearby is called Profitis Ilias after the little church there, and it was the scene of a Cretan uprising in 1897. The rebellion was signalled by running up a flag of independence. Legend has it that, the flagstaff being shot away, a resistance fighter held the standard in his hands, whence the land and naval guns stopped firing to honour his bravery!

THE ALLIED WAR CEMETARY AT SOUDA

This site has row upon row of immaculately kept headstones, many to unknown soldiers. It illustrates the full calamity of the Battle of Crete. A memorial service is held here each May.
This site has row upon row of immaculately kept headstones, many to unknown soldiers. It illustrates the full calamity of the Battle of Crete. A memorial service is held here each May.

APOKORONAS

APTERA is perched high above the entrance to Souda Bay. It grew rich as a result of maritime trade and was at its peak around 3BC Ruins include huge Cyclopean city walls, underground Roman arched cisterns and ancient Byzantine public and private buildings. The road to Stylos has a Minoan burial ground on the left as you leave Megala Horafia. Just before you reach the village of Stylos look for the church or Panageia Serviotissa dating from 11/12 BC. It is in the middle of an orange grove and has an unusual octagonal dome. Stylos is known for its mineral water Suda Bay

and is a small village surrounded by greenery. From Samonas follow a gravel road to a beautiful Byzantine church of 11-12BC. The kafenion in Samonas holds the key to the church. is perched high above the entrance to Souda Bay. It grew rich as a result of maritime trade and was at its peak around 3BC Ruins include huge Cyclopean city walls, underground Roman arched cisterns and ancient Byzantine public and private buildings. The road to Stylos has a Minoan burial ground on the left as you leave Megala Horafia. Just before you reach the village of Stylos look for the church or Panageia Serviotissa dating from 11/12 BC. It is in the middle of an orange grove and has an unusual octagonal dome. Stylos is known for its mineral water and is a small village surrounded by greenery. From Samonas follow a gravel road to a beautiful Byzantine church of 11-12BC. The kafenion in Samonas holds the key to the church.

ALMIRIDA is 19 kms from Chania and was once just a quaint fishing Almeritha

hamlet. It has a lovely beach which is sandy and popular for windsurfing and catamaran sailing. There are tavernas all along the seafront, a small archaeological site and it is a good walking area. Beyond is Plaka, a picturesque hamlet and Kokkino Horio an old world Cretan hamlet nestling on a granite landscape supporting olive groves and scrub, criss-crossed by dry stone walls. There is a glass blowing factory, open to the public, there.

GAVALOCHORI belonged to the Byzantine Gavaladon family and has pretty restored houses in narrow streets, a small museum of 19c household objects and an ancient settlement with 30 Byzantine wells on the outskirts.

LAKE KOURNAS boasts the island’s only fresh water lake, sheltered in a bowl of hills. During the day the colours of the lake change as the sun moves round the rim of the bowl. Hire a pedalo or canoe and look for the terrapins. There are a few tavernas around the edge of the lake.

SOUTH

CHRYSSOSKALITISSA, ELAFONISSI
Chryssoskalitissa is a convent built on a rock overlooking the Ionian sea. The name of the convent

means ‘Virgin of the Golden Step’. To reach it you have to climb 90 steps and legend has it that one of the steps is made of gold, but sinners cannot see it! Set 35metres up on a cliff on the west coast, it is very isolated . The road goes on to beautiful Elafonissi which has a lovely sandy beach with a turquoise lagoon and small islets you can wade too. These days it is less peaceful than it used to be but is still well worth a visit if you avoid peak times.

FALASSARNA

In ancient times Falassarna was the westernmost city of Crete and an important sea port. It was destroyed by one of the great tectonic earthquakes that raised the level of western Crete. The ruins of the harbour are visible 100m from the sea and there are tombs carved on the rocks. Falassarna has a wonderful long sandy beach, but it is not advised to go there on a windy day as the sand is fine.

LOUTRO
Drive to Chora Sfakion then take the early afternoon boat to Loutro (only 15 mins), returning late afternoon. A small seaside community with idyllic bays beyond, reached only by boat from Chora Sfakion or Sougia. Historically interesting as it is situated near to ancient city of Phoenix. The monastery of Panagia Loutro, the Turkish castle and other structures have been preserved.

FRANGOCASTELLO
Venetian fortress built near the sea in 1371. Late in May with the morning dew strange shadows appear. Locals call them Droussolites and connect them with ancient tales. Mild climate and large sandy beach. Several fish tavernas along shore.

PALEOCHORA
A small, pretty town with a gorgeous beach and ruins of a Venetian fortress. Koundoura nearby has cedar trees and caves for exploration. Neighbouring Skalavopoula, Vouta and Kitiores have frescoed churches from 12, 13 and 15C. Azogires has a museum documenting Turkish occupation, and caves. Picturesque drive to Paleochora.

SOUGIA
The village of Sougia is built on the coast with a lovely beach, warm climate and unspoilt nature. Very relaxed, slow paced and slightly bohemian.

WEST OF CHANIA

KOLIMBARI AND MONI GONIA
Kolimbari is still unspoiled by tourism, has a long pebble beach and a number of tavernas. Onto the peninsular it is 2 minutes walk to Moni (monastery) Gonia which boasts fabulous views and a scramble down to a sandy cove. It is an early 17C monastery with Turkish cannonballs lodged in the walls. 17C and 18C icons in the church and a small museum. There are a few monks left including one who looks after the tourists offering raki and a look at his stamp collection. A donation would be appreciated.

RODHOPOU PENINSULAR
Just beyond Moni Gonia is a modern Orthodox academy and from here the road follows the coast for a short way then begins to climb, hairpinning its way to a dizzy height above the sea before turning inland. Magnificent views along the coast and down into the clear, green sea. Afrata is tiny with a couple of kafenions and a simple taverna. Below Roxani’s taverna follow the rough track, keeping to the right. It drops steeply and after 1km you’ll reach a rocky cove with exceptionally clear water, great for swimming.

TOPOLIA & ELOS
Topolia is a beautiful village and looks down into the start of a wild gorge. Elos is a pretty village where the chestnut festival is held every year.

GRAMVOUSSA
GRAMVOYSA ISLAND FROM BALOS (c) Copyright Stelios Grigorakis

The Bay of Kissamos is about 8 miles (13km) wide and 11 miles (18km) long ending at the capes of Bouza and Spatha. You’ll see that the water is crystal clear and turquoise blue. On the left of the bay you’ll see the remains of the ancient remains of the city of Kissamos, the old monastery of Agia Irini, the ancient shipyard Tarsanas and in the harbour of Agia Sozou the ancient city of Agneon with the temple of the god Apollo.
Towards the end of the bay you’ll notice that Crete is rising on the western side and the traces left by the water on the cliffs from when the sea level was higher confirm this fact. This phenomenon is thought to have occurred about 1450 BC when a volcano eruption on Santorini resulting in heavy earthquakes would have provoked the lifting up of western Crete. This probably ended Minoan civilisation.

BALOS (c) Copyright Stelios Grigorakis On reaching uninhabited Gramvoussa island you’ll see a Venetian fortress on the highest point at the edge of its ravine (137m). Although supposedly impregnable it was taken over several times. At one time this small island was an expedition base for Cretan rebels and it sheltered about 3000 inhabitants who survived as pirates attacking and looting all ships passing by..

10 minutes sailing from Gramvoussa brings you to the idyllic lagoon of Balos with its turquoise blue water. It has a lovely sandy beach, pink shoreline and warm, shallow waters for swimming.